Ed: Using about a dozen videos and articles, I asked Google’s NotebookLM to write a short review of this watch.
Tudor has a knack for the unexpected. Just when watch enthusiasts thought they might make it through the year without an impulse purchase, Tudor dropped what one reviewer called an “absolute temptation bomb” – the new Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”. Launched for summer 2025, this isn’t merely a new colorway; it represents a “complete aesthetic departure” for the brand, especially within its core catalog. With its striking ice-blue dial and polished accents, this 37mm dive watch is making waves, aiming to broaden Tudor’s appeal and potentially usher in a “small dive-watch summer”.
The Evolution of a Fan Favorite: Specs and Innovations
The Black Bay 54 line, first introduced in 2023, was celebrated for its compact size and vintage-inspired proportions, taking cues from Tudor’s 1954 Oyster Prince Submariner (ref. 7922). The “Lagoon Blue” variant retains the much-loved foundational specifications of its predecessor. It boasts a comfortable 37mm stainless steel case diameter, a slim 11.2mm thickness, and a manageable 46mm lug-to-lug distance, making it an incredibly wearable watch for various wrist sizes. With a standard 20mm between the lugs, it offers versatility in strap choices, though it comes exclusively on a bracelet.
Powering the watch is Tudor’s in-house MT5400 caliber, a COSC-certified chronometer that offers a robust 70-hour power reserve and a non-magnetic silicon hairspring. This movement ensures reliable and precise timekeeping with a stringent -2/+4 seconds per day accuracy tolerance from Tudor. True to its dive watch heritage, it maintains a strong 200 meters of water resistance.
However, the “Lagoon Blue” is far more than just a dial swap. Tudor has introduced several significant design changes:
- The Dial: The most captivating update is the dial itself. It features a stunning “icy blue” or “aquamarine” color with a unique “sand-textured” metallic finish. This texture, achieved using a cold pressing technique, is unlike anything previously seen on a Black Bay and gives the watch a “dreamy,” “iridescent”, and almost “glittery essence” that has been described as feeling “more Grand Seiko than Tudor”. The Snowflake handset and applied markers are made of polished metal and filled with white Super-LumiNova for legibility. The printings and minute track are executed in dark blue.
- The Bezel: A bold departure is the new mirror-polished steel insert bezel, replacing the traditional matte aluminum found on most Black Bays. This marks the first time Tudor has released a dive watch with a steel rotating bezel in 25 years. While it drastically changes the watch’s look, making it more luxurious and less tool-focused, it also makes the dial feel smaller and adds to its visual distinctiveness. The 60-minute scale is presented in negative relief with a matte surface for contrast.
- The Bracelet: The “Lagoon Blue” exclusively comes on a new five-link Jubilee-style stainless steel bracelet, moving away from the three-link rivet-style bracelet of the original BB54. This bracelet, with its polished center links, is noted for its “silky motion” and exceptional comfort, similar to Rolex’s Jubilee bracelet. Crucially, it features Tudor’s admired T-Fit micro-adjustment system in the clasp, allowing for on-the-fly resizing across four or five positions with an 8mm adjustment window.
A Watch for a Broader Horizon: Marketing and Reception
The aesthetic changes of the “Lagoon Blue” signal a deliberate shift in Tudor’s strategy. It’s described as “lighter, flashier, and more contemporary”, with a dressier, more jewelry-adjacent feel. While the original BB54 was already considered a “genderless watch”, the “Lagoon Blue” is a “bolder foray into getting women on board,” with its metallic blue dial, high-shine polished bezel, and toned-down dive-watch elements pointing “clearly toward a play for the female market”. The press kit for this watch was notably “women-heavy,” a departure from the norm. However, it also caters to men who appreciate smaller sizes and a more vibrant, “Miami vice summer vibe”. This watch aims to blend “youthful fun energy with vintage styling,” bringing together popular trends like compact size, fun dials, and steel bezels.
The reception has been largely positive, though not without nuance. Many commend Tudor for its “earnest stab at new provocation through color” and its effort to democratize smaller sporty watches. It’s seen as a “mild metallic thrill” and a welcome step towards creating more serious watches for women that aren’t merely “pink it and shrink it” reinterpretations. For existing BB54 owners, the “Lagoon Blue” is different enough to justify owning both.
Potential Drawbacks and Considerations
Despite the enthusiasm, some points of contention have emerged. The highly polished steel bezel, while visually striking, is a “fingerprint magnet” and “will inevitably scratch,” a valid concern for a tool watch. This departure from the rugged, utilitarian feel of traditional dive watches might be a “me problem” for some enthusiasts, with one reviewer undecided on the mirror polish. Another point is the watch’s versatility; the vibrant light blue dial, while beautiful, “might make it less versatile than a black dial” for everyday wear. Finally, while the MT5400 movement is excellent and COSC-certified, some fans express minor disappointment that it’s not METAS certified, a standard Tudor has been gradually rolling out to other models. One critique also noted the lack of “rehaut action” making the dial look “flat, unfinished, cheap” in pictures. Despite these minor critiques, the overall sentiment is that the “Lagoon Blue” is a compelling and attractive release.
Pricing & Availability: Your Summer Acquisition
The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” is priced at US$4,350. It is also available for CHF 3,900, EUR 4,240, and £3,590. While initially it might be challenging to acquire, with waitlists reported at local authorized dealers, it is not a limited edition. Some sources indicate it has been categorized under Tudor’s “daring watches” lineup, which includes more exclusive models. However, unlike the “pink” or “flamingo blue” chronographs that are “virtually impossible to get,” the “Lagoon Blue” should become more accessible in a few months.
Is the Lagoon Blue For You?
The Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” is undoubtedly a head-turner. It’s a fresh, vibrant take on a beloved compact dive watch, pushing Tudor’s design boundaries while maintaining its robust tool-watch capabilities. Whether you’re a man who appreciates smaller, more colorful timepieces, or a woman seeking a sporty yet elegant watch that avoids stereotypical “feminine” tropes, this watch offers a unique proposition. It’s destined to be a “fantastic summer watch” and a conversation starter, further cementing Tudor’s reputation for innovative and well-executed vintage-inspired designs. For many, this could be “the best Tudor release of 2025”.